Co-washing Curly Hair: The Pros And Cons Of This Cleansing Method

Let’s talk about washing your hair – without actually washing it. If you’ve spent time in the curly community, you’ve probably heard whispers of co-washing curly hair, a technique that promises moisture, definition and bounce in one easy, foam-free step.

But does it live up to the hype? And is it right for your specific curl type? Whether you’re a co-washing convert or cautiously curious, we’ve created the ultimate guide to help you understand the method, the magic and the maintenance.

What is co-washing hair?

Wondering what is a co-wash exactly? In short, it’s a moisture-rich cleansing method designed with curls in mind. Co-washing – short for conditioner washing – is the practice of cleansing your scalp and strands using a conditioner or specially formulated co-wash shampoo, rather than a traditional foaming shampoo.

Unlike conventional shampoos that often rely on sulphates and lather to do the heavy lifting, co-wash for curly hair works by gently lifting away buildup using nourishing oils that hydrate as they cleanse. The result? Hair that feels soft, defined, and deeply nourished, not stripped or squeaky.

Think of it as a multitasking miracle: one part hydration treatment, one part curl-respecting cleanser. But co-washing isn’t for everyone. Every head of hair is different, and the best way to know if it’s right for you is to simply try it. Experiment. Tune into how your curls respond. Read on for the caveats, considerations and tips to help you make it work beautifully for your hair.

Co-wash for curly hair: the benefits

So why all the buzz? Here’s why co-washing is a staple for many wavy, curly and coily-haired folk:

Moisture, moisture, moisture

Curly hair is naturally drier due to the shape of the strand, which makes it harder for natural oils to travel down the hair shaft. A co-wash for curly hair locks in essential hydration without stripping your strands, leaving you with plumper, juicier curls that look as lush as they feel. 

Gentler on scalps

If your scalp is sensitive, dry, or easily irritated, co-washing can be a game-changer. Instead of harsh surfactants, a co-wash shampoo uses a blend of nourishing plant-based ingredients to gently remove buildup while soothing the scalp. 

Preserves curl pattern

Harsh cleansers can unravel the delicate structure of curls and waves. By skipping the suds, co-washing helps maintain the integrity of your natural texture. The result? Soft, bouncy, well-defined curls that stay true to their shape.

Co-washing curly hair: the drawbacks

While co-washing curly hair can feel like the ultimate moisture ritual (and often is), it’s not without its caveats. At its heart, co-washing prioritises hydration over deep cleansing, focusing more on adding moisture to the hair to prevent dryness or breakage, rather than fully cleansing the scalp and hair. That’s great news for thirsty curls, but it can also mean that oils, sweat and product residue aren’t being rinsed away quite as thoroughly.

The good news? Co-wash shampoos have come a long way. Many modern formulas strike the perfect balance between gentle hydration and effective scalp care. Still, it’s worth knowing where co-washing might fall short. 

May not fully remove:

• Sweat

• Dead skin cells

• Sebum (natural scalp oil)

• Styling products

• Dirt and dust

• Environmental pollutants

Productopbouw

If you’re layering on oils, creams, gels, or leave-ins (as most curlies do), those nourishing products can eventually build up. Over time, this may weigh down your curls or leave your scalp feeling congested. A deeper cleanse every now and then can work wonders. 

Try our Scalp Exfoliating Shampoo to reset the scalp and lift away anything that’s lingered, leaving your hair and scalp feeling fresh, clean and ready to soak up moisture again. Read How Often Should You Use Detox Shampoo to find out more.

Not ideal for all hair types

While co-washing wavy or coily textures can deliver beautiful results, it’s not a one-size-fits-all approach. If your hair is fine, low porosity (read our guide to low porosity hair), or naturally oily, you might find co-washing leaves it feeling limp or over-conditioned.

In these cases, our Hydrating Hair Cleanser can be a better match. It offers a gentle lather to effectively lift away buildup without stripping natural oils – ideal for finer strands or scalps that need a bit more clarity.

Some curls may also benefit from alternating between Curl Cleanser and Hydrating Hair Cleanser, depending on scalp condition, as described in Cleansing 101: Bouclème’s guide to shampoo for curly hair. For example, if your scalp tends to get oily or itchy between washes, introducing Hydrating Hair Cleanser into your routine can help refresh the roots while still supporting healthy curls. It’s all about listening to your scalp and finding the balance that works for your hair.

Co-wash shampoo – is it for you?

If your curls, coils or waves constantly feel parched, puffy or prone to frizz, co-washing could be the game-changer your hair has been waiting for. A good co-wash for wavy hair or curly hair is particularly beneficial for anyone dealing with scalp sensitivity or those avoiding sulphates due to their drying effects. (Curious why sulphates can be problematic? We explain more here.)

But like all things in the curly world, co-washing isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution. You might find it’s not quite right for you. A low-foaming shampoo like Hydrating Hair Cleanser or a detox shampoo like Scalp Exfoliating Shampoo may be better, particularly if you have very fine hair that tends to go limp or roots that get oily faster if you love layering on styling creams, gels and oils. In those cases, a deeper cleanse might feel fresher and more effective for your scalp.

How to co-wash like a pro

Ready to give co-washing a go? Here’s how to make the most of your co-wash for wavy hair and curls – without the grease, grime, or confusion. 

First things first: if your hair feels oilier than usual in the early days, don’t panic. That’s totally normal. Your scalp may just be adjusting, especially if you’ve been using foaming shampoos for years. Many people notice a short transition period where things feel slightly out of balance. But stick with it. Once your scalp has had the chance to recalibrate, you’ll wonder why you didn’t make the switch sooner.

You might also find you need more product at the beginning to get that perfect “slip” – that smooth, silky feeling that helps your fingers glide through. But over time, as your hair becomes better hydrated and your wash frequency reduces, you’ll likely find yourself using less product, not more.

Pro tip: rinse, rinse, rinse. The most common mistake? Not rinsing thoroughly enough. If your hair feels greasy post-wash, it’s often due to either not using enough product to begin with or not fully rinsing it out. Co-washing should leave your scalp feeling refreshed and your curls soft, never heavy or coated.

Choose the right co-wash shampoo

Not all conditioners are created equal – and not all are suitable for co-washing. Look for a dedicated co-wash shampoo like Bouclème’s Curl Cleanser or Fragrance Free Curl Cleanser. These aren’t traditional products – they’re expertly formulated to cleanse and hydrate. 

Virgin coconut oil helps moisturise and strengthen the hair shaft, while decyl glucoside, a mild cleansing base, keeps greasy roots at bay. Argan oil brings elasticity and shine to the table, making your curls feel nourished, not weighed down. 

Your five-step co-washing ritual

1. Start with soaking wet hair. Water is key. Ensure your hair is fully saturated so the co-wash can distribute evenly.

2. Massage your scalp thoroughly. This step is non-negotiable. Use your fingertips (not nails!) to stimulate circulation, lift buildup, and help the product work its magic.

3. Detangle while you condition. Use your fingers or our Wide Tooth Comb or Detangling Wet Brush to gently work through knots while the conditioner provides slip.

4. Rinse like you mean it. Don’t rush this part – take your time to rinse thoroughly and ensure no residue is left behind. Your scalp should feel fresh and light.

5. Detox occasionally. Every few weeks, give your scalp a fresh start with a sulphate-free detox using our Scalp Exfoliating Shampoo. This deep yet gentle cleanse helps lift away product buildup, excess oils and impurities, leaving your scalp refreshed and your curls free to thrive. In between detoxes, alternate between Curl Cleanser and Hydrating Hair Cleanser based on your scalp’s needs. If your scalp feels dry or sensitive, Curl Cleanser can soothe and moisturise. If it’s feeling oily or in need of a deeper clean, Hydrating Hair Cleanser offers light lather and clarity without stripping.

The conscious co-wash

Co-washing might just be the reset your hair has been craving: a softer, slower way to cleanse, without stripping away what your hair actually needs to thrive. Think of it as a return to balance: less friction, more freedom. For curls and waves prone to dryness or frizz, co-washing can be a game-changing ritual that encourages softness, hydration and definition with every rinse.

It’s not a miracle cure or a one-size-fits-all solution – and it doesn’t have to be. Co-washing isn’t about ditching shampoo forever, but about introducing a gentler, more intuitive approach to washing that supports your hair’s unique needs. 

Bouclème’s Curl Cleanser and Fragrance Free Curl Cleanser are beautifully balanced co-wash formulas designed specifically for curly and wavy hair types. They offer all the moisture of a co-wash with the lightweight cleansing you need to feel fresh, not flat. Give your curls the love they deserve. Shop now and start your co-wash journey here.